First swell of North Shore 9-7-14

It's official the first swell of the north shore has arrived.

The sets were topping 7'+ in some places out here at the better exposed N Shore spots.

Glad to see some decent waves and some good sized faces, now is when you see how slow the summer really was and how badly you need to workout more as well.

The left break started out at about 2-4 fun sized gradually while tide came in the sets started stacking up in the 4-7 ft range (8'-14' faces) out on my 6'6'' and decided I needed a smaller board or smaller waves.

Down the road to a smaller wave and another left break super clean glassy and 2-4 ft on sets, swell was still westerly so was not as big here, the next two days the swell turned more N NW so these spots started getting some of the swell better.

Looking forward to a great winter and trying out my new 6'6' board although it's a little narrower it's pretty fast looking pin tail and thruster FCS fin setup.

From surftech

"Similar to the shape Owen rides on tour, the round tail combined with slightly more tail rocker transforms into a very smooth high performing board especially when the waves are hollow and fast, yet also excels in smaller, weaker conditions. The Owen Pro combines a single concave throughout, going to a slight double concave between the fins with a smooth flowing rail line. The Power Base thruster fin set-up gives the board amazing holding power but is still free enough to throw huge airs. ULTRAFLX technology provides lightness and strength, combined with a flex pattern that helps maximize the board’s potential in speed and maneuverability. Definitely a board high-level surfers will want in their quiver, perfect for progressive free surfing or the highest level of competition."

Although would be happy just to get some fast walls and barrels with this board myself...